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Unveiling Upper Lazio: Exploring the medieval magic of Viterbo and its ancient villages

Italian regions
16.08.2024
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Introduction

Upper Lazio stands as one of Italy's hidden gems, a lesser-known corner of the Bel Paese with a rich history and elegant allure. Often overlooked due to its proximity to more famous tourist spots, this region's beauty remains a well-kept secret. At the heart of central Italy lies Tuscia, one of Upper Lazio's most captivating areas.

This region boasts picture-perfect countryside views, where ancient tuff-built villages and castles perch atop lush hills. Vineyards, woods, and farmhouses dot the landscape, creating a mesmerising tapestry of colours. Here, time seems to stand still, offering visitors an unforgettable glimpse into Italy's past.

Today, Tuscia encompasses nearly all of Viterbo province, housing remarkable natural and artistic treasures. Exploring Tuscia is akin to uncovering Italy's history and revealing its roots. This ancient Etruscan land still bears visible traces of its past, with numerous archaeological sites, now UNESCO World Heritage sites, scattered across the territory.

For centuries, Tuscia has been a crucial crossroads, thanks to its strategic position on the Tyrrhenian coast and its proximity to Rome. It has welcomed princes, kings, aristocrats, and generals, accompanied by great artists and architects who left behind priceless masterpieces.

The Romans favoured this area as a holiday destination due to its numerous thermal springs. Tuscia reached its zenith in 1207 when Viterbo was named the City of Popes. This corner of Italy is best discovered at a leisurely pace, allowing visitors to lose themselves among its countless wonders.

Mysterious parks, fairy-tale villas, evocative palaces, and villages frozen in time await your discovery!





Viterbo

Viterbo, known as "the city of fountains and Popes", is a city unlike any other in Italy. Its origins are shrouded in mystery, with myths, legends, traditions, and folklore intertwining history and fantasy.

It is undoubtedly the most dazzling medieval jewel in this region.

Renowned for having Europe's largest historic centre, Viterbo is characterised by buildings made of peperino, a local grey volcanic stone that changes hue with the weather. This recurring element gives the city its unique character.

A marvel of medieval urban planning, the historic centre is encircled by 3 km of castle walls. Walking through its streets is like stepping back in time.

From the stately palaces of Piazza del Plebiscito, overlooked by the 15th-century clock tower, to the authentic medieval atmosphere of the San Pellegrino district, and on to the Duomo di San Lorenzo standing on its hill next to the majestic Palazzo dei Papi, the pinnacle of Gothic architecture.

Take time to wander through the San Pellegrino district. Admire its details: flower-covered staircases, squares, churches, and fountains. Pop into artisan workshops where traditional techniques are still used, such as zaffera, a refined ceramic known for its intense blue decorations.

For relaxation, spend a few hours at Terme dei Papi, an enchanting spot for those seeking a rejuvenating day.

Viterbo's many facets mean that a single visit can only scratch the surface of its deep history and culture...

Culinary delights of Viterbo

After a day of exploration or relaxation at the spa, it's time to savour a typical meal.

Prepare yourself for a taste of the past. Whether you choose a country trattoria, a city centre restaurant, or a wine cellar during a festival, the keyword is always TRADITION.

A typical starter is bruschetta drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, accompanied by Tuscia's cold cuts like sausage, capocollo, and bacon, surrounded by goat, cow, and sheep cheeses, and mozzarella.

For the first course, try traditional Viterbo soups such as acquacotta (soup with stale bread, mint, and chicory), mushroom and spelt soup, or sbroscia (fish, potato, and tomato soup, served on stale bread).

If you prefer pasta, try cavatelli, a Vitorchiano speciality (thick spaghetti with tomato or game sauce), Canepina's fiena (thin puff pastry usually with sauce), or lombrichelli with wild boar ragout sprinkled with pecorino cheese, or fettuccine with porcini mushrooms.

For the main course, options include lake fish (whitefish and eels), wild boar, roasted hunter's lamb, rabbit, pork, and chicken. These are often served with Gradoli or Sutri beans, Valentano chickpeas, or Onano lentils.

To round off your meal, sample Viterbo's tozzetti, pangiallo, walnut macaroni, ricotta-filled sweet ravioli, cavallucci, and jam tarts.

For wine lovers, beyond the famed Est! Est!! Est!! of Montefiascone, try the Tiber Valley reds, Grechetto, Cannaiola, and Gradoli's aleatico.

When to visit Viterbo

Tuscia welcomes visitors year-round, but autumn and spring offer the most pleasant climate - neither too hot nor too cold.

For those keen on local traditions, plan your visit to coincide with the ancient villages' festivals. Don't miss the annual Transport of the Machine of Santa Rosa on 3rd September. This event, honouring the city's patron saint, is recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

This enormous votive structure, standing 30 metres tall and weighing over 5,000 kg, is illuminated by candles and carried through the city centre by a hundred 'Porters'. The procession covers a kilometre, winding through Viterbo's heart. Comfortable shoes and a sense of wonder are all you need to fully appreciate this spectacle.





Discovering the ancient villages around Viterbo

Why limit yourself to one city when you can discover a wealth of captivating villages within a short distance?

Civita di Bagnoregio

Like a magnificent sculpture on a pedestal, Civita di Bagnoregio rises from a tuff spur in the Calanchi valley's centre.

This enchanting Upper Tuscia village, known as 'The dying city', sits in a fairy-tale landscape. It's an extraordinary example of a late medieval settlement.

Included among Italy's most beautiful villages, Civita perches 443 metres high on a tuff outcrop. A 300-metre bridge, seemingly suspended in the clouds, connects it to Bagnoregio and the outside world.

Upon arrival, you'll pass through the picturesque Porta Santa Maria, leading to the village's heart.

Explore the narrow alleys of this late medieval hamlet, where squares, courtyards, mullioned windows, and portals intermingle.

Beyond the stunning views and landscape beauty, the village's incredibly evocative atmosphere stands out. It offers some of Italy's most famous and photographed vistas... truly unmissable.

Civitella D'Agliano

Civitella D'Agliano's charm stems not only from its historical and artistic wealth but also from its surroundings, making it one of Italy's most beautiful and characteristic villages.

Following the Teverina road, flanked by woods and stunning vineyards, you'll reach this small medieval village perched on a tuff hill.

At the village entrance, the belvedere offers a magnificent view of the Tiber valley and the river forming the natural border between Lazio and Umbria.

Strolling through the streets, you'll reach a beautiful square paved with river pebbles set in basalt stone squares. Look up, and your gaze will be captured by a glimpse of the historic centre, with its tuff houses leaning against each other, proudly dominated by the imposing Torre dei Monaldeschi.

Bolsena

Travelling along the road skirting Lake Bolsena's shores, you'll spot a centuries-old sentinel in the distance, standing guard over the lake from the mountain's highest point - the Monaldeschi Castle.

The historic centre nestles at its feet, preserving the character, atmosphere, and even sounds of ancient memories.

As you walk on the cobblestones between narrow alleys and squares, enchanting glimpses of the lake suddenly open before your eyes.

Bolsena boasts crystal-clear waters and beautiful landscapes. On the hills, long rows of vineyards and olive groves chase each other, framed by dense woods. This is the ideal place to live out a dream.

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